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  • December 9th, 2014
    Par Françoise-Claire Prodhon
    PARIS-SALZBURG MÉTIERS D'ART SHOW <BR />BY FRANÇOISE-CLAIRE PRODHON

    PARIS-SALZBURG MÉTIERS D'ART SHOW
    BY FRANÇOISE-CLAIRE PRODHON

    Chanel presented the 2015 Métiers d’Art Paris‑Salzburg collection in a glorious Rococo setting at the Leopoldskron castle. The show drew inspiration from Austrian history, that of Empress Elisabeth "Sissi," who was admired in her time for her elegance and beauty, as well as traditional attire such as the lederhosen and dirndl which Karl Lagerfeld infused with modern luxury by using an elegant yet sporty color palette. The signature piece of the collection is the four-pocketed jacket inspired by the garments that Gabrielle Chanel would have seen elevator operators wear at the Mittersill hotel during her stays in Austria. This further inspired the collection's silhouettes of boxy jackets paired with wide-cut trousers featuring contrasting tuxedo stripes, calling to mind a structured, uniform-like look.

    Flared jackets, capes and maxi-length coats reveal a pleat at the back that echo the traditional loden coat while their leather trimmings, gold embroidery, feathers and flower appliqués evoke the Austro-Hungarian period. Knits are punctuated with Alpine flora while Austria's famous lederhosen are paired with leather breeches and also reimagined as handbags. A rich palette presented the iconic colors of white, red, navy and black enhanced with hues like forest green, khaki green, dove gray and brown. Sophisticated yet sporty, the collection was intentionally contemporary. Karl Lagerfeld explores Austrian style, showcasing its refinement through the savoir-faire of the Chanel ateliers. Embroidery, feathers and pleats are crafted with painstaking delicacy to give this collection a romantic edge. Tweed, leather and cashmere partnered with loden and felt, and these materials blended with satin, faille, taffeta and lace lend the collection a fresh, youthful vibe.

    The models walked in moccasins decorated with edelweiss, ankle-strap clogs and thigh-high lace-up boots, while their heads were graced with feather-topped hats and ear muff-like headphones styled to look like coiled Heidi braids. The collection's jewelry creations celebrate all things Alpine with cable car, cuckoo clock and edelweiss motifs. Black and white silhouettes often adorned with flower embroideries dominate the collection's evening looks. Bodices, ruffs and pleats soften structured dresses, which are finished off with patent leather boots for an edgy style.

    Françoise Claire Prodhon

    Photo by Benoit Peverelli

  • December 5th, 2014
    THE STORY OF THE MÉTIERS D'ART SHOW

    THE STORY OF THE MÉTIERS D'ART SHOW

    The behind the scenes film of the Métiers d’Art Paris-Salzburg collection.

  • December 5th, 2014

    BACKSTAGE

    Métiers d'Art Paris-Salzburg show.

    Photos by Benoit Peverelli

  • December 5th, 2014
    MAKING OF THE MÉTIERS D'ART 2014/15 COLLECTION

    MAKING OF THE MÉTIERS D'ART 2014/15 COLLECTION

    Film in the ateliers of the Maisons d'Art.

  • December 5th, 2014
    THE VIDEO OF THE SHOW - SHORT EDIT

    THE VIDEO OF THE SHOW - SHORT EDIT

    View the full video of the show on chanel.com

  • December 5th, 2014
    CELEBRITY INTERVIEWS

    CELEBRITY INTERVIEWS

    First impressions gathered after the Métiers d'Art 2014/15 show in Salzburg.
    Interviews by Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni

  • December 4th, 2014
    KARL LAGERFELD TALKS ABOUT THE SHOW

    KARL LAGERFELD TALKS ABOUT THE SHOW

    Interview by Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni after the Métiers d'Art Paris-Salzburg 2014/15 show.

  • December 3rd, 2014
    Par Françoise-Claire Prodhon
    THE CHANEL JACKET <BR />BY FRANÇOISE-CLAIRE PRODHON

    THE CHANEL JACKET
    BY FRANÇOISE-CLAIRE PRODHON

    The story of the Chanel jacket all began with the invention of the suit in the early 1950s. This modern, comfortable garment, combining masculine and feminine elements, was Gabrielle Chanel's answer to the style of the 1950s, which she considered too constraining and not adapted to women's lives.
    "A Chanel suit is made for a woman who moves," said Gabrielle Chanel, adding: "I really care about women, and I wanted to dress them in clothes that make them feel at ease, clothes they can wear to drive a car, but that still emphasize femininity". It was immediately successful, and the suit along with its jacket became essential items in women's wardrobes, the synonym of freedom and casual elegance.
    The jacket, worn with a wrap-around skirt, is unique, taking inspiration from traditional Austrian men's jackets. This jacket in tweed, one of Mademoiselle Chanel's signature fabrics, was designed like a second skin: straight, structured, with an edge-to-edge closure and no shoulder pads or stiff interfacing.

    To reconcile flexibility and support, the jacket front is cut on the grain, without darts at the bust. The back is cut the same way, simply separated by a center seam. Vertical side panels join the front and back. The sleeve, cut on the grain, meets the bodice at the top of the shoulder. It is slightly angled with darts at the elbow to follow the shape of the arm for ease of movement and comfort. To ensure this perfect freedom of movement, Mademoiselle Chanel would take her customers' measurements with their arms crossed and hands resting on their shoulders. The silk lining of the jacket is cut with the same criteria ensuring comfort. A delicate chain sewn into the lower part of the jacket ensures that it falls impeccably. The graphic aspect is emphasized by the braid (grosgrain braid, knitted, etc.) that outlines the contours of the jacket, the pocket edges, and the cuffs. The pockets are placed to make it easy to slip the hands in. The jacket is done up with jewel-like buttons stamped with the lion's head motif (Mademoiselle Chanel's astrological sign was Leo), sheaves of wheat, camellia, or the double C logo.

    Reinvented every season, the jacket has become one of the iconic elements of the Chanel style. "Actually, the Chanel jacket is inspired by the traditional Austrian men's jacket. Coco Chanel invented a type of garment that did not exist in this exact form, and this is an achievement that no one can take away from her. It is one of the symbols that defines the Chanel style." As Karl Lagerfeld has said, "In the world of fashion, some things never go out of fashion: jeans, a white shirt and a Chanel jacket".

    Françoise Claire Prodhon

    Photo by Benoit Peverelli

  • December 3rd, 2014
    Par Michel Gaubert

    SHOW PLAYLIST BY MICHEL GAUBERT

    1. SCIENCE & INDUSTRY Andy Stott
    00:31
    • 1. SCIENCE & INDUSTRY 00:31
      Andy Stott
    • 2. MR MOUSTAFA 00:31
      Alexandre Desplat
    • 3. CONCERTO FOR LUTE AND PLUCKED STRINGS I. MODERATO 00:29
      Siegfried Behrend
    • 4. SNOWBIRD 00:35
      Clark
    • 5. DAYLIGHT EXPRESS TO LUTZ 00:31
      Alexandre Desplat
  • December 2nd, 2014
    Par Olivier Saillant

    MÉTIERS D'ART PARIS-SALZBURG SHOW

    Schloss Leopoldskron, Salzburg.
    View the full collection on chanel.com

    Photos by Olivier Saillant

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