December 5th, 2017
Lemarié, which began working with feathers in Paris in 1880 and expanded to produce artificial flowers in 1946, is now at the heart of Karl Lagerfeld’s designs and also works with many other fashion houses. Working with feathers and flowers offers an infinite range of potential textures and patterns and requires ingenuity and technical flair. It was Maison Lemarié that Gabrielle Chanel turned to when she first came up with her camellia design in the 1960s. The emblematic flower blooms anew each season in Karl Lagerfeld’s sketches.
Though expert in flowers and feathers, Lemarié excels in the subtle inlaying, cascades of flounces, pleats and sophisticated smocking in a range of shapes and textures, from organza to velvet, leather to tweed and and satin.
More information on lemarie-paris.fr
December 5th, 2017
The Elbphilharmonie concert hall standing on the bank of the river Elbe in the old port area of Hamburg, which has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, is the city’s new cultural landmark. It was designed by the Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron and symbolizes the past, the present, and the future. Built atop the original brick walls of a former cocoa warehouse, the glass structure has a roof in the shape of waves, rising to a height of 110 meters. This scale of the edifice echoes that of the ocean-going vessels berthed opposite in the port. Its strange silhouette stands out in this very horizontal city. The glass facade, made up partly of curved window panels, makes it look like a giant crystal set over the old buildings. This new building is the showcase venue for the Paris‑Hamburg 2017/18 Métiers d’art show.
© Olivier Saillant
December 5th, 2017
The Maison Lognon allies traditional craft skills and digital technology in its cutting-edge techniques. Its deft-fingered experts create elaborate interplays of volume in flat expanses of fabric in a highly demanding process that requires painstaking accuracy and detailed knowledge of the characteristics of each material. Perfect pleating takes unspoken coordination and perfect fingertip synchronisation from two pleaters working together.
Over the decades, Lognon has worked with a wide range of fabrics, from silk, crepe, tulle, and chiffon to organza, velvet and leather. It has developed its own specialist jargon: reclining, flat, hollow, round, accordion, Watteau, sunburst, and Fortuny are all types of pleating mastered by Lognon, shedding light on the history of technical innovations in fashion. The company's history is still being written, as Lognon works closely with the CHANEL Studio, since it joined CHANEL's Métiers d’art in 2013.
December 4th, 2017
Founded in 1936, Maison Michel found a natural home in Paris’ fine craft tradition. Each season sees the launch of new designs by Priscilla Royer, who took over as artistic director in 2015.
Maison Michel complements and counterpoints Karl Lagerfeld’s collections with its hats, which regularly accessorize CHANEL looks. Boaters, half-veils, caps, and knit caps all offer a new twist on a wide range of classic headwear, in multiple variations interpreting the codes of the House. Above and beyond their sheer artistry, the Métiers d’art collections offer highly skilled creations that reflect an urge for constant innovation drawing on a long-standing, diverse craft tradition.
More information on michel-paris.fr
December 2nd, 2017
The deft-fingered embroiderers of Maison Lesage are the guardians of an enduring, unique craft that has been passed down through the generations for almost 160 years, illuminating the Haute Couture collection and other designs made in Paris. Rhinestone, ribbons, beads and cabochons create exceptional patterns, trompe l’oeils, reflections, textures, illuminations, and hues that enhance the fabric and cut of garments from CHANEL’s own ateliers.
Signature of CHANEL’ style, the Lesage tweeds, showcased in every collection, are also produced by the Lesage studio weavers. Refined weaving of threads and ribbons made in a wide range of materials, it reinvent the fabric in line with Gabrielle Chanel’s heritage, reflecting Karl Lagerfeld’s creative inspirations.
CHANEL is the only House to have dedicated an entirely separate collection to the Métiers d'art in order to pay homage to the virtuoso skills of the Maisons d’art, a vital part of their creative story.
More information on lesage-paris.com
November 30th, 2017
CHANEL’s Métiers d’art are a constantly reinvented tradition that combines exacting standards with bold innovation. They are a constellation of workshops offering exceptional craft skills, including the featherwork specialists Lemarié, bootmakers Massaro, embroiderers Maison Lesage, hat maker Maison Michel, and pleating experts Lognon.
Every December, Karl Lagerfeld unveils a special new Métiers d’art collection inspired by a city that’s linked to the past of present of the House. Showing fabrics such as tweed, leather, cashmere, and silk and decorative accessories such as gloves, jewelry, and embroidery at their absolute finest, the shows pay homage to the creative imagination of the House and the virtuoso skills of the craft specialists.
Tokyo, New‑York, Monte‑Carlo, London, Moscow, Shanghai, Byzance, Bombay, Edinburgh, Dallas, Salzburg, Rome, Paris and soon Hamburg, all hosted the Métiers d’art collections.
November 29th, 2017
An olive branch in gold metal, to wear as a hair accessory. Symbol of Athens, the olive tree that was produced out of the ground by the goddess Athena represents victory and abundance.
November 28th, 2017
CHANEL's first flagship boutique, opened in Tokyo in 1994, recently reopened on its original site in a new building designed by the architect Peter Marino.
November 28th, 2017
Eyewear frames in the Cruise 2017/18 collection sport a wreath of golden leaves, a signature motif echoing the laurel crowns of victory of ancient times.
See the Cruise 2018 Eyewear collection on chanel.com
November 27th, 2017
At the CHANEL at colette cocktail, French actress Anna Mouglalis, House ambassador Caroline de Maigret, French chef Jean Imbert and American artist Futura 2000 shared their thoughts on creativity in the new episode of the podcast 3.55.
Listen to the podcast on chanelatcolette.fr
© Alix Marnat