It was deep in an autumn forest that guests discovered the House's latest ready-to-wear collection. The 81 looks were presented in russet, orange, moss, pine green and bark brown hues, expressing nature's rich palette without forgetting CHANEL's signature black and white. From foliage prints to branch-like braids and ornamental buttons intricately carved with leaves, poetic notes weaved their way through a collection of meticulous silhouettes that allied refinement with comfort.
Frayed, woven or classic tweeds, corduroy, woolen serge and knits were warmed up with oversized scarves, pink leather mittens and faux fur cuffs embellished with feathers, whilst finishing touches came in the form of thigh-high boots, ankle boots or flat derbies in oxide gold leather. The new '31' tote bag created by Karl Lagerfeld paired smooth leather with quilting, tweed or printed cotton canvas.
Elswehere, tubular shapes, square shoulders, high necks and a new ankle-skimming length set the tone courtesy of long, straight coats. The iconic CHANEL jacket was elongated or cropped at the hip. Suits were reworked and twisted via poncho basques, whilst pencil skirts and dresses were slashed or opened up with vents to liberate the step. Knitwear in soft biscuit, écru and white tones was illuminated with touches of gold and delicate lurex threads. Large coats with floor-caressing hems hijacked the spirit of dramatic capes with their oversized cuffs. Evening came, and with it, an air of polished, modern elegance. Omnipresent, the little black dress - more often than not, long - played out in organza, embroidered tulle, muslin or lace, alternating sheerness with layered textures. It made its appearance worn underneath a quilted jacket in black or white trim, or under a feather-adorned faux fur cape.
© Olivier Saillant