• 2015년 4월 24일
    20TH CENTURY MASTERPIECE

    20TH CENTURY MASTERPIECE

    In 1923 Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles commission Robert Mallet-Stevens to build - on the heights overlooking Hyères - "an infinitely practical and simple house," where everything, according to Charles de Noailles, "follows the same principle: functionality”.
    Mondrian, Laurens, Lipchitz, Brancusi and Giacometti introduce works of art, Jourdain the furniture, and Guévrékian the Cubist garden. In addition to the clear, structured forms and defined contrasts, this resolutely modern avant-garde construction also reflects the rationalism movement. Boasting as many as 15 bedrooms as well as a pool and squash court, the continual addition of extensions up until 1933 transform the site into an edifice measuring some 1800m2 (19,375 square feet) dedicated to a new lifestyle approach where the body and nature, in harmony with the spirit, unite as one.

    Here, in this dream resort with its white walls, a pearl protected by a lush mass of vegetation, with views over the Mediterranean and the Golden Isles, the Noailles play host to Dali, Gide, Breton, Artaud, Poulenc, Lifar, Huxley, and most of the major emerging artists of the day. Following the passing of Marie-Laure in 1970, and its acquisition by the town of Hyères, and successive restorations, the villa today, as an art center and artists’ residency, celebrates the 30th anniversary of its International Festival of Fashion & Photography.

    The anniversary offers the perfect opportunity to revisit the places immortalized by Karl Lagerfeld in 1995 in a series of black and white photographs. "Timelessly modern", "vulnerable like the present instant", the Villa Noailles appears empty, altered by the passing of time and yet still imbued with almost a century's worth of encounters and artistic creations. The image freezes the poetry of the decor, ennobling the traces of time and, moving beyond a reality that can sometimes prove limiting, awakening the imagination.

    Sophie Brauner

    Photos by Karl Lagerfeld

  • 2015년 4월 24일
    TWO REBEL SPIRITS, <BR />FIGURES OF MODERNITY

    TWO REBEL SPIRITS,
    FIGURES OF MODERNITY

    “Prodigiously intelligent” is how Francis Poulenc describes Coco Chanel to Marie-Laure de Noailles in the early 1930s, before the two women meet at last, an attribute that also sums up the spirited Marie-Laure, though the traits they had in common did not end there.

    Fact and fiction shaped both of their childhoods. Gabrielle, for her part, masked the unhappiness of her early years and went on to invent a legend. Marie-Laure, who was raised in a highly cultivated, privileged environment that was lacking in affection, had a solitary childhood, as the descendant of a wealthy German banking family and a French aristocratic clan whose ancestry can be traced back to the notorious Marquis de Sade. Her eccentric grandmother, the Comtesse de Chevigné, who partly inspired Marcel Proust’s Madame de Guermantes, was to prove a major influence.

    Just like Gabrielle, Marie-Laure follows her artistic instincts. The Parisian hôtel particulier that she moves into following her marriage to Charles de Noailles already houses a major collection of Old Masters, from Delacroix to Rembrandt, Goya to Rubens. The couple commission decorator Jean-Michel Frank to redesign the site’s interiors — think stripped back spaces with monastic volumes, marrying rare pieces of furniture and unique materials like straw and panels of parchment with pure forms. This stark aesthetic echoes Marie-Laure’s own look, with her wardrobe of Chanel suits (she owned 40 different styles, most of them black, according to Abbé Mugnier).

    In constant pursuit of refinement, Chanel the designer favors the harmony of lines and the simplification of the garment, freeing up movement. Marrying beauty and function, she defines a new modernity.

    A rebel and nonconformist like Coco, Marie-Laure gets a kick out of provocation. In 1932, as one of the first to adopt the diamond jewelry designs audaciously presented by Gabrielle to help “combat the economic crisis”, she appears in Vogue sporting a sparkling feather brooch.

    Chanel revolutionizes fashion; Marie-Laure as muse and patron, and later painter and writer, contributes to the history of art, amassing, together with her husband, a collection of works spanning Braque, Picasso, Balthus, Mondrian, Giacometti and Man Ray. The couple play host to le tout-Paris and cultivate their knack for scouting new talent, notably the Surrealists. They finance cinematic projects, and lend support to composers like Markevitch, Poulenc and Stravinsky …

    More discreet in her support of the arts, it is Gabrielle Chanel who offers shelter to the Russian composer and his family in her villa in Garches. As early as 1924 she designs the costumes for Le Train Bleu, a ballet by Diaghilev featuring a decor painted by Picasso, along with other productions and a film by Renoir. She shares close relationships with the poets of the day and avant-garde artists including Dali, Nijinski and Visconti. Coco also shares a close friendship with Cocteau, for whom Marie-Laure has had an infatuation all her life … Marie-Laure is a hopeless romantic; Coco, who is destined to remain alone, despite her epic love affairs, confesses that, without love, a woman is nothing.

    Sophie Brauner

    Marie-Laure de Noailles © Henri Martinie / Roger-Viollet

    [더 많은 내용 보기]
  • 2015년 4월 23일

    제30회 이에르 국제 패션/사진 페스티벌
    (30TH INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF FASHION & PHOTOGRAPHY IN HYÈRES)

    2015년도 이에르 페스티벌(Hyères Festival)은 메종 샤넬을 명예 게스트로 맞이할 준비에 분주하다. 칼 라거펠트는 아티스틱 디렉터를 맡았고, 크리에이티브 스튜디오 디렉터 버지니 비아드(Virginie Viard)는 패션 부문 심사위원단 단장을 맡았으며, 샤넬 패션의 이미지 디렉터인 에릭 프룬더(Eric Pfrunder)는 사진 부문 심사위원단 단장을 맡았다.

    4월 23일 시작하여 5일간 열리는 이번 페스티벌은 컨퍼런스와 토론 및 원탁 회의, 워크샵과 전시 등 풍성한 스케줄로 진행된다. 각각의 일정은 전문가들과 학생들, 그리고 일반에 오픈된다.

    이와 함께 10명의 패션 디자이너와 포토그래퍼들의 경합 역시 진행되는데 각계의 전문가들과 주요 인사들로 구성된 심사위원들에 의해 선별될 예정이다. 올해의 수상자 발표와 시상식은 오는 4월 26일 일요일에 열릴 예정이다.

  • 2015년 4월 15일
    걸 샤넬 백(THE GIRL CHANEL) <BR />샘 롤린슨, 파리

    걸 샤넬 백(THE GIRL CHANEL)
    샘 롤린슨, 파리

    2015 봄/여름 레디-투-웨어 컬렉션의 걸 샤넬 백.

  • 2015년 4월 7일

    2015 봄/여름 아이웨어 캠페인

    칼 라거펠트가 직접 촬영한 최신 아이웨어 캠페인의 모델, 크리스틴 스튜어트.

  • 2015년 4월 7일
    크리스틴 스튜어트<BR />아이웨어 캠페인, 메이킹 오브

    크리스틴 스튜어트
    아이웨어 캠페인, 메이킹 오브

  • 2015년 4월 1일

    쇼장에 자리한 관객들

    파리-잘츠부르크 컬렉션의 프리젠테이션, 뉴욕

  • 2015년 4월 1일
    뉴욕에서 열린 파리-잘츠부르크 컬렉션의 영상

    뉴욕에서 열린 파리-잘츠부르크 컬렉션의 영상

  • 2015년 4월 1일
    프라이빗 콘서트(PRIVATE CONCERT)

    프라이빗 콘서트(PRIVATE CONCERT)

    파리-잘츠부르크 컬렉션이 열린 밤의 마지막은 퍼렐 윌리엄스의 프라이빗 콘서트로 장식되었다. 퍼렐과 파리-잘츠부르크 컬렉션 광고 캠페인을 촬영한 카라 델레바인도 함께 무대에 올라 "CC the World"를 공연하였다.

  • 2015년 3월 31일
    컬렉션 쇼(THE SHOW)

    컬렉션 쇼(THE SHOW)

    파리-잘츠부르크 컬렉션 프리젠테이션, 뉴욕

    사진: 올리비에 세일랑 (Olivier Saillant)

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