Cruise 2015/16 Press Kit shot by Karl Lagerfeld
Photo shoot in Paris by Karl Lagerfeld for the Cruise 2015/16 Collection.
Photos by Olivier Saillant
Welcoming in 2014 the Culture Chanel exhibition, the Dongdaemun Design Plaza is set to host the Cruise collection 2015/16 show.
Devoid of a single angle or straight line, the world’s largest neo-futurist building, conceived by Zaha Hadid, instead plays out as a cohesive symphony of pure, continuous curves. Like some alien spaceship that has come to land in Seoul, the ovoid silver structure (measuring 86,574 square meters, or 931, 875 square feet) blends seamlessly into the urban landscape with its fluid, harmonious lines.
The gaze ricochets off of this concrete structure sheathed in 45,133 individual aluminum panels, each distinct from the next. Equally spectacular is its interior – all twists and arches – which extends across three levels below ground and four above without the use of a single pillar. Features include a spiral staircase, a cylindrical gallery and spiral corridors, and a bright, Arctic-white lobby with a nine-meter high ceiling. The structure incorporates cultural artifacts discovered during archaeological excavations, including remnants of the ramparts that once surrounded Seoul on four nearby hills, dating back to the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).
The first woman ever to win the prestigious Pritzker Prize, Zaha Hadid, born in Baghdad in 1950 but British by adoption, designed the Chanel Mobile Art pavilion in 2008 and is one of the favorite architects of Karl Lagerfeld.
Photos by Panta Creation and Park Haewook ⓒ DDP (Dongdaemun Design Plaza)
Seoul, the capital of South Korea, is host to Tower Infinity – the world’s first 'invisible' skyscraper, thanks to advanced technology able to reflect images in real time. One of the world’s largest metropolises, with over 25 million inhabitants and lightning-fast internet connections, Seoul is a symbol of modernity, at once a World Design Capital and one of the most committed green cities. It was recently awarded WWF’s global Earth Hour City Challenge prize, and was recognized by the UN in 2014 for its efforts in climate action, such as encouraging businesses and citizens alike to use renewable energy.
Yet such modernity does not exclude spirituality. Alongside high-tech developments, the religions of Buddhism, Confucianism and shamanism remain part of South Korea’s make-up. No building is built without a ritual appealing to the benevolence of the spirits, while widespread belief in the philosophy of yin and yang is reflected in the design of South Korea’s flag and inspired the region’s traditional hues of blue, white, red, black and yellow. Vivid tokens of luck offering divine protection thus color everyday items, from traditional costumes inspired by the Chôzon dynasty (1392-1910) – dubbed 'Hanbok' – to the faces of young brides, who mark their cheeks with two red dots. A love of nature is another component of the national identity. Koreans can often be found hiking in the mountains, kitted out in the latest sports gear, or walking the 6km (3.7 mile) greenway along the redeveloped banks of the Cheonggyecheon stream in the heart of the capital.
Falling between tradition and the avant-garde is the so-called Korean Wave, a major cultural craze surfing a strong appetite for indigenous pop music, movies and TV shows – in this part of Asia, popular heroines of TV series are said to influence entire generations – which have since spread across the world, thanks to social media.
In 1919 a small mid-season collection proposed by Coco for her clients vacationing in sunny climes gets a mention in American Vogue. The acceleration of cultural and social change sees the emergence of a new, independent woman who drives, and practices sports, while travel on luxury liners becomes fashionable among high society. The sportswear category takes off, with Gabrielle a key influencer.
In her boutique in Biarritz she proposes a sober, elegant wardrobe (think baggy, sailor-style pants, beach pajamas, and open-neck shirts) aimed at women familiar with the resort and yachting lifestyle of the era’s fashionable resorts, with as their playground the Basque Country, the Riviera and the Lido. Her designs, which coincide with the democratization of fashion and advances in travel that took off during the 1930s, are also cited in L’Officiel de la Mode in 1936: ’’A comprehensive mid-season collection… rich in suits and evening gowns.” The Cruise spirit is born, with Gabrielle its pioneer. Outmoded, the collection winds down in the 1950s but is resurrected by Karl Lagerfeld soon after his arrival at Chanel in 1983. Presented in late spring, on the fringes of the ready-to-wear collection, the silhouettes herald the arrival of summer.
The collection’s success sees the introduction of an annual show in the year 2000, a concept that slowly filters through to the rest of the fashion industry. Chanel sportswear, having evolved into more elegant lines, today addresses a global clientele on the lookout for newness, with fresh pieces introduced by the Maison roughly every two months. Refined, light and colorful, these summery silhouettes - geared to the day, cocktail-hour or evening - are especially suited to the climates of countries in South America, the Middle East and South-East Asia.
Blending together the traditions of a wardrobe and the modernity of a cosmopolitan style, the Cruise collection is about traveling. Each stop is for Karl Lagerfeld the occasion to tour favorite Gabrielle Chanel's destinations and to envision those she would have love to discover.
Gabrielle Chanel and Roussy Sert on a boat - Circa 1935 © All Rights Reserved
巴黎-薩爾斯堡服裝系列視覺形象企劃，由卡拉‧迪樂芬妮(Cara Delevingne)、菲瑞‧威廉斯(Pharrell Williams)與哈德森‧克洛尼格(Hudson Kroenig)擔綱演出。
Posters : Ludwig Hohlwein © Adagp, Paris 2015; Ernst Lübbert - Public domain / Furniture : Bruno Paul © Adagp, Paris 2015 / Lamp : Gerhard Schliepstein - all rights reserved
昨天在第三十屆國際時尚與攝影藝術節中，時尚競賽的評審團宣佈這次的得獎者並非只有一位，而將有兩位贏得時尚獎項的大獎。德國女裝設計師 Annelie Schubert得到第一名，將榮獲15,000歐元，以及與香奈兒Métiers d’Art工坊系列合作的機會。
畢業自漢堡大學的應用科學系，曾經於Haider Ackermann實習的 Schubert，在作品中探索「女性的表情」，透過多種性感的布料打造出優雅且多層次的造型。「我原以為這會是很困難的決定，但是今天早上開會時，大家的決定是一致的：我們喜歡Annelie在色彩、材質上的運用，以及她對於女性特質的敏銳度。」時尚獎項評審團的主席Virginie Viard如此說明。
Annelie Schubert womenswear collection / photo © Grégoire Alexandre